Hard Brake Pedal? The Real Cause and Diagnostics
#1
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From: New York
Hard Brake Pedal? The Real Cause and Diagnostics
After one day my break pedal went to the floor for a second time last month (first time they bleed air out of the system and it worked ok for a week) i went to the shop. Lines and pads were checked everything was fine.
Diagnosis was "Master Cylinder Failure" and it was replaced...
Ever since my break was kinda hard but i didn't have time to get to the shop to show it to them. Plus it'* my first car and i don't really know who hard pedal should be.
But last night i was driving another car and had to drive mine right after it, and difference in force needed to be applied to the breaks nearly caused me an accident.
Please let me know what can be the problem and how can i single it out without getting ripped off... Because the master cylinder that was replaced was a year old and i don't really believe it could have been real problem.
Thank you
Diagnosis was "Master Cylinder Failure" and it was replaced...
Ever since my break was kinda hard but i didn't have time to get to the shop to show it to them. Plus it'* my first car and i don't really know who hard pedal should be.
But last night i was driving another car and had to drive mine right after it, and difference in force needed to be applied to the breaks nearly caused me an accident.
Please let me know what can be the problem and how can i single it out without getting ripped off... Because the master cylinder that was replaced was a year old and i don't really believe it could have been real problem.
Thank you
#2
I wonder if your brake booster (the big, round vacuum can behind the master cylinder) has failed or has lost its vacuum supply. That would make the brakes much harder to operate. Check the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the booster to make sure it is connected and in good condition. Check to see if the diaphragm in the booster unit is good by disconnecting the vacuum supply hose at the booster with the engine idling. The idle should change drastically when you do this, as you are adding lots of un-metered air to the engine. If there is no change in the idle, that would suggest the diaphragm in the booster is ruptured. Also, check to make sure the vacuum supply hose is not internally blocked by placing your thumb over the end of the hose you disconnected with the engine running. You should feel a strong vacuum. If not, the hose is blocked.
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