Hi guys,

I recently got access to a bunch of GM Technical Service Bulletins -- what a great source of info! As I make my way through them, I'll post the fixes to the more common problems here for all to benefit... if you all are interested, that is.

This one fixes a problem that I've seen discussed in the various Bonneville public forums regarding the fuel gauge reading empty when the tank is filled up.

Hope this helps some of you out

- Dean

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Fuel Gauge Goes to Empty When the Fuel Tank Is Full
Bulletin Number: 93-8-10
Reference Number: 308102
Publish Date: 2/93

Subject:
FUEL GAUGE READS EMPTY WITH FULL FUEL TANK (INSTALL 2000 OHM RESISTOR IN PARALLEL W/FUEL SENDER)

Models Affected:
1992-93 PONTIAC SSE AND SSEI

CONDITION:

Some 1992-93 Pontiac SSE and SSEI vehicles may exhibit a condition where the fuel gauge needle goes to empty when the fuel tank is completely full. If this occurs, the chime sounds and the "CHECK GAUGES" message comes on the display. After a short period of time (30 seconds to 10 minutes of driving), the gauge will recover and begin working again.

CAUSE:

The cause of this condition is a high resistance build-up on the fuel tank sender. The cluster interprets this high resistance (typically 105 ohms) as an electrical fault and sends the fuel gauge needle to empty.

CORRECTION:

The condition may be corrected by installing a 2000 ohm (2 kohm) resistor in parallel with the fuel sender.

DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR:

Refer to section 8A-81 in the Service Manual for circuit details.

1. If the owner explains that the fuel gauge goes to empty when the fuel tank is filled then begins working after some time, follow steps 2 through 9 below. If the fuel gauge is at empty all of the time, follow the diagnostic procedures in the Service Manual for the cause of the condition.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Remove the lower rear seat cushion.

4. Locate the conduit on the left side of the car and expose the Purple (circuit # 30) and Black/White (circuit # 803) wires. Be careful to get the correct wires since there is also a purple/white wire in the opposite bundle.


The correct purple and black/white wires are in the wiring bundle that has the clear level ride line (ELC) in it.



5. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation from each wire as shown in Figure 1. Do not cut the wires.

6. Solder one end of the resistor to the purple wire and the other end to the black/white wire as shown in the figure. A 1/4 or 1/2 watt 2000 ohm resistor is recommended. However, the resistor can be from 1800 ohms (1.8 kohms) to 2200 ohms (2.2 kohms). You can buy this resistor at your local electronics store. Radio Shack normally carries a 2.2 kohm resistor.

7. Tape the connections to prevent any electrical shorts.

8. Put the wires back into the conduit, install the rear seat pad, and connect the battery.

9. Turn the ignition and verify the fuel gauge works correctly.


WARRANTY INFORMATION:

Operation No.:
T5338

Labor Time:
.4 Hr.

Thanks for posting the info!

This kind of stuff would be great info for putting in the "Tech Know-How" section of this site!!!

I agree. Does anybody know about the copyright implications? (Sorry, can't afford to take legal chances right now)

Jeff,

I'll send you an email with information about their copyrights

- Dean

my '95 did that one day during the winter!! And i had just filled it up too. It ended up fixing it self though.

You know, I wonder if that could be the problem i am having with it now?? the jerking and stuff. I thought before it might be something to do witha really dirty fuel filter, and if that thing with the gas tank was caused by a dirty filter then, it must be really dirty now! does that make any sense? I'm getting so fed up with this simmy/shake/jerk thing it does ALL THE TIME now and i have spent so much $$ getting it checked out hmmmmm

Well my bonny is falling apart and next moth I will have to drop a tone of coin in her. sooo I will also be looking into my shimmy( burned front disks) shakes ( bad modulator, distribution, alt) then I will have the whole thing gone over for bad grounds and electrical shorts. Oh and the heater core is up for replacement. Weeeeeee.

Now for something topic related... my fuel filter acts up when I huck it around corners causing all my gauges to go wacko. Oh and this is a good one the guys who replaced my front rim that fell off gave me the wrong size. LOL totally messed up my alignment. If I’m going about 50mph and huck it into a sharp corner (obviously compensating before hand for the pushing) the gauges go all over the place causing bells to go off. Engine still works and has good pick up still just bouncing gauges. Is this normal? I figure it is because of the system style. Oh and I need new motor mounts.

TY

My mechanic said it could be either the guage or the sending unit, located on the fuel pump in the fuel tank. Big $ either way, so, I reset the trip odometer every fillup and when it hits 400 miles, I refill the tank.

Any suggestions?

That worked for me on my 87! I still do this with my 92 SE too but for seeing how long a tank of gas lasts though. Like it lasts long with my foot on the floor all the time too! :P LOL