Flushing the cooling system
#2
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northern WV
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#3
PopaDopaDo
True Car Nut
Go to walrmar and get a FlushnFill kit for about $4.00, 2 gals Prestone mix with all (not pre mixed) and maybe some Superflush or Super radiator cleaner
Follow the directions on the FlushnFill kit. The air purge vavle is on top of the thermostat housing for when you are at the 'bleed the air out' step.
All in all, its pretty simple.
Follow the directions on the FlushnFill kit. The air purge vavle is on top of the thermostat housing for when you are at the 'bleed the air out' step.
All in all, its pretty simple.
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I would follow the same procedure for the L27. It may not be as prone to trap air in the intake manifold as the L36, but filling at the thermostat opening as described in the Techinfo article (linked for you above by twobonnies) is still a good idea.
If you have the time, and energy, and have a nice warm place to work with a sanitary drain nearby, you might want to try this method for flushing. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=84203
Following that method, you will perform a true reverse flush for the radiator, engine, and heater core. Using the flushing Tee alone will not provide a reverse flush for the heater core or for the entire radiator, just the side tank on the passenger side.
Reversing the direction of normal flow through the system is more effective in flushing sediment from narrowed and blocked passages in the system than flushing in the normal direction of flow. Normal flow is from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump, from the water pump to the engine block both sides, up into the cylinder heads and intake manifold, out of the intake manifold passenger side through the coolant elbow, to the heater core through the top heater hose, back from the heater core through the lower heater hose to the water pump, out of the intake manifold driver'* side to the radiator top hose through the thermostat (only when open) across the radiator from the driver'* side to the passenger side, out the bottom of the passenger side tank.
If you have the time, and energy, and have a nice warm place to work with a sanitary drain nearby, you might want to try this method for flushing. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=84203
Following that method, you will perform a true reverse flush for the radiator, engine, and heater core. Using the flushing Tee alone will not provide a reverse flush for the heater core or for the entire radiator, just the side tank on the passenger side.
Reversing the direction of normal flow through the system is more effective in flushing sediment from narrowed and blocked passages in the system than flushing in the normal direction of flow. Normal flow is from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump, from the water pump to the engine block both sides, up into the cylinder heads and intake manifold, out of the intake manifold passenger side through the coolant elbow, to the heater core through the top heater hose, back from the heater core through the lower heater hose to the water pump, out of the intake manifold driver'* side to the radiator top hose through the thermostat (only when open) across the radiator from the driver'* side to the passenger side, out the bottom of the passenger side tank.
#6
Does this link still work? http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
Want to make sure I do this raditor collant flush correctly and get all the air out of the lines especially after the thermostat.
Want to make sure I do this raditor collant flush correctly and get all the air out of the lines especially after the thermostat.
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
This thread is old and some of the links are part of the old system that has not been recovered...that'* why they no longer work.
No need to use a chemical flush unless you have visible corrosion and rust in the radiator. Just drain and capture the old fluid for recycling. The valve on top of the t-stat housing is used to bleed the system. You'll need to open and close that a couple of times to get all the air out.
No need to use a chemical flush unless you have visible corrosion and rust in the radiator. Just drain and capture the old fluid for recycling. The valve on top of the t-stat housing is used to bleed the system. You'll need to open and close that a couple of times to get all the air out.
#8
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colo Spgs, CO
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but today I am dropping the necessary coin to 'repair' my manifold (upper and lower). As far as flushing coolant, I read that GM uses Dexcool, and cannot be mixed with other coolant brands, and you cannot entirely flush the system to rid it of Dexcool. Also of note is that Dexcool was known for dissolving the manifold gasket. I had to ensure that I was getting the retooled GM gasket to avoid the same issue down the road.
#9
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mississauga Ontario
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Make sure your engine is cold lol, unscrew the lower part of the radiator hose to get rid of all the coolant, then close up hose and add water to the radiator, let the motor run for like 10min then release hose again and fill up radiator with half Dex-cool and water and your set. Change the thermostat while your at it. Remember let the motor run with the radiator cap off until it starts bubbling, your most likely gonna have to top it off few times.
#10
Junior Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dex cool??? hell naw... dats the **** that melts your intake gaskets.. i'd definitely go with prestone or any other antifreeze/coolant mix other than dex cool
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tdellaringa
Forced Induction
2
10-08-2003 07:56 PM