Whoa! That code means there are no faults...

You know, it was late last night when I ran that thing. Yes, I am using the factory shop manual to try to diagnose this piece of you know what. However, I am not very good at following the directions as as I said earlier it is like Greek to me. I think I will run them again. I would be much happier just calibrating the thing if I could figure out exactly how to do it - the shop manual gives "directions" but I get really confused. I have been turning wrenches for over forty years and can do some things pretty darn well, but I am having real difficulty here. The directions on the techinfo are great to figure out the diagnostic codes, but to go further and override the ECC and recalibrate I am just stumped. Thanks for the support. You guys are great!
The good news is that some of my other problems are going OK. Alternator was under lifetime warranty so I fixed that fine, the jerky SC boost gauge was fixed with the new gatorback belt. However, I still have the locked rear door and inop lumbar system to deal with. Thanks again, guys!

If I'm reading the instructions right (and I don't know if I am) what the EEC thinks is full hot or full cold can be different than the actual air mix operation. Hence the need for calibration. ECC override allows you to manually adjust the air mix valve and compare it with the actual travel.

.....
System air is heated, as necessary, by passing it through the heater core. An air mix valve, located inside the heater and A/C module assembly, determines how much air passes around the heater core and how much is forced through the core. When all air is forced through the heater core, maximum heating is obtained. When all air is routed around the heater core, no heating is obtained.

The air mix valve is operated by the air mix valve actuator, which mounts on the heater and A/C module assembly. The actuator contains a reversible DC motor that is powered by the HVAC programmer. The programmer uses information from the heater and A/C control assembly and its network of sensors to determine appropriate air mix valve position. The programmer then powers the actuator motor to run in the direction necessary to move the air mix valve to that position.
....

For instance, if you manually override the ECC to full hot (output number 117* F, setting 01) the air mix actuator or door should allow all air to pass through the heater core. At full cold (setting 9, the door should be completely closed. If one or the other is not right it needs to be adjusted. Unfortunately it appears as if you need to get access to the heater core is adjustment is absolutely necessary.

Well, I have a new part on order (should be here Friday ) and have the glove box out of the car, etc. Now, I am looking at a very constrained space to work and heater/AC ducting is in the way. I read on another thread somewhere that you have to "hacksaw blade" the ducting out of the way to get to the actuator to replace and adjust it. Question is: Exactly where and how much ducting is to be cut away (and later replaced) to get to this thing? AND, is the actuator behind the ducting or IN it? Thanks VERY much for answers to these questions as the manual is very, very vague. Oh, yes, this car has passenger air bag - which is the big reason it is hard to get to. Thanks again.

I had the air mix door problem last year, and I tried the hacksaw solution at someone'* suggestion on this Forum. The duct can be cut in the middle, and the door is behind, well behind and underneath, it. I tried for 4 hours with no luck in getting to the door itself. HOWEVER, I moved the actuator back and forth a few times and packed it back up disheartedly. Guess what? The blinking went away, and the hot air started blowing again like normal (I had the problem in the fall). It is been OK ever since.

I am not an expert, but perhaps moving the actuator actually frees it up? Removing the dash seems very complicated.

Well, Gents, I fixed it!!! Just had to tell someone. I took me a Saturday, Sunday and this morning, but I did replace the module that adjusts the temperature door position which is what the self diagnostic indicated was the problem. I tried to do it by cutting the ducting behind the glove box and it just isn't doable that way in a bonneville with passenger side air bag!! (This is probably the BIG reason for this post to relay that you cannot do it this way with the passenger side air bag.) However, you still have to cut the ducting so you can adjust the lever arm after the thing is all put back together. You can do that with the ducting cut /removed. I ended up having to do it the way the workshop manual says: Remove the Instrument panel, lower the steering column, remove the dashboard and if you have the floor console the floor console, remove that too. Just to be able to get to one screw. When you are able to pull the dash panel back a few inches you can remove the black box that is lying on top of the screw so you can get to it. The actual replacement took two screws and one electric connection replacement! Anyway, the shop manual is not real detailed and I spent a long time looking for the "nut" that is at the top center of the dash board and never found it - turns out it is a screw, not a nut. While I had the Instrument Panel out I cleaned the connections and looked for bad soldering, but really found nothing. Did find a large dead insect up in between the circuit boards. Could that have been causing my intermittent flickering on my drivers information display? Put her all back together and now it appears to be working fine. I haven't taken a drive with it yet, but got no codes and no flashing display.........so, I am thinking the new part fixed it. Thanks for all the help from everyone on this problem!

Thanks for the info, stever. It appears as if this is my next project on my 93.

I do have one question, though. Was it necessary to totally remove the dash or just get enough room to change the part? The reason I ask is I have a crack in the dashboard and will probably replace it with a junkard part. I'm assuming it'* one thing to loosen it up and move just a bit versus taking it completely out.

I was able to replace the driver motor actuator without completely removing the dash board. I pulled it about five inches or so toward the rear of the car so I could get to the actuator from the top - still a constrained space but doable. I did not completely remove the dash, but there really wasn't much left to do to remove it completely from the car. Essentially all that remained to be done was disconnect a bunch of wire connectors. I did not want to do any more than I had to do, so didn't do that. Hope this answers your question. I just feel great to have gotten this done OK - just hope nothing else goes wrong any time soon!!

That answered my question very well.

Thanks

stever, do you (or anyone else for that matter) have the part number for the air mix door actuator? Strangely enough, my parts car, which has manual climate control, has a similar actuator. I was very happy to think I could replace the one in the SSEi without having to order a new one.

Well, wouldn't you know, it didn't work properly. As a matter of fact, it seemed to work totaly opposite the way it'* supposed to. Bastards!

On a side note, I noticed a huge crack in the climate control box itself. It'* just one thing after another with this thing... I think it'* going to stay that way though. It does lose some ari through the crack but the air flow is still pretty strong.