Fan switch alternative
#1
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fan switch alternative
So after replacing everything short of the ECM that has to do with the fans turning on, I've decided to unplug the fans from the stock harness and run an aftermarket fan temp switch that can be set to a temperature and turns the fans on at that temp. Basically it'* a thermo-relay. Will I run into any voltage or electrical issues by doing this? For example when the engine hits the temp I set the fans will turn on. But will that power draw mess with other electrical systems?
I've already unplugged the fans completely and turned to the car on without throwing any codes.
I've already unplugged the fans completely and turned to the car on without throwing any codes.
#3
Retired Senior Admin
Expert Gearhead
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes
on
25 Posts
Should not cause any problems. But I do suggest using a switched power source so you don't have a problem where the fans keep running after shutting the car off.
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
i would hope the switch controls a relay, and the high current side of the relay operates the fans. then find a convenient source from the fuse block that is on with the key, run it through the temp switch then to the + side of the relay control side.
#6
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not quite sure what you mean. The switch itself is a thermorelay. Meaning it has a temperature probe that controls the current running through the switch itself. I just need a 12V ignition source that is controlled by ignition that'* under the hood preferably. I just touched wires to the contacts and i kept blowing the inline fuse. I did notice that I was spinning the fans backwards. Would that cause fuses to blow? Does anyone know what amperage those fans require?
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
fans require alot of current to run, you have it wired backwards if they are going backwards but i dont think thats your fuse problem. look at the original fan fuse they are usually 20-30a. do you have a link or something to what you have?
this is what you should do;
this is what you should do;
#8
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...67187_69565_0_
I believe I was using a 25a fuse but I'm
Not sure. It was only 18g awg at most maybe 16. I don't want to chop up
Wires or cut and rerun them. I'm going to unplug the fans and just run a new wiring harness
I believe I was using a 25a fuse but I'm
Not sure. It was only 18g awg at most maybe 16. I don't want to chop up
Wires or cut and rerun them. I'm going to unplug the fans and just run a new wiring harness
#9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I dont know what you mean just run a new harness,
read the instructions you dont want to wire it that way it will just run without the key, but if you get a relay you can do it this way.
read the instructions you dont want to wire it that way it will just run without the key, but if you get a relay you can do it this way.
#10
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The switch itself is a relay that connects charge when it receives a signal from the attached probe. So the switch needs positive and the ground. So the switch is in between the battery and the fans. I'm just not quite understanding the purpose of another relay in the mix
Of all that. Is the positive connection that is located in the maxi fuse block
Should I just run a feed to the fuse block under the drivers side?
Im weary about going above a 20a fuse for the fans. But I have a 30a right now
Of all that. Is the positive connection that is located in the maxi fuse block
Should I just run a feed to the fuse block under the drivers side?
Im weary about going above a 20a fuse for the fans. But I have a 30a right now