Drove it yesterday, doesn't start today? 97 se sc
#51
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Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
#52
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Thanks for the additional information. I found a schematic of the ignition system. It looks like we could rule out a vats or fuse problem by seeing if there is power going to the ICM.
James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.
Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.
If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.
No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.
Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.
If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.
No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
#53
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Originally Posted by james tharp
Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
Stupid question; you metion spark plug wires, if you have already replaced them, are they all in order. No Pun, just :?: :?:
#54
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Hold up Cheetah.
Our back bank of plugs do have a metal casing that slides around the plug boot.
Take them off the old wires and put them on the new ones. They help the boots resist the high temps found behind the motor.
Our back bank of plugs do have a metal casing that slides around the plug boot.
Take them off the old wires and put them on the new ones. They help the boots resist the high temps found behind the motor.
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Originally Posted by james tharp
Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
Set the meter up for DC volts.
Black wire in Com
Red in V?ma
Like Cheetah said - solid line with 3 dots under it.
Check the voltage of the battery to confirm its set up correctly.
Black lead on tester to Neg. Battery terminal.
Red lead to pos. side.
should read 12-13 volts.
#56
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Hold up Cheetah.
Our back bank of plugs do have a metal casing that slides around the plug boot.
Take them off the old wires and put them on the new ones. They help the boots resist the high temps found behind the motor.
Our back bank of plugs do have a metal casing that slides around the plug boot.
Take them off the old wires and put them on the new ones. They help the boots resist the high temps found behind the motor.
I compleately agree Bill, however it'* not needed to start the car at least I don't think so.
#57
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Originally Posted by james tharp
Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
Set the meter up for DC volts.
Black wire in Com
Red in V?ma Yes <----
Like Cheetah said - solid line with 3 dots under it.
Check the voltage of the battery to confirm its set up correctly.
Black lead on tester to Neg. Battery terminal.
Red lead to pos. side.
should read 12-13 volts.
#58
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im not seeing the horizontal line with 3 dots,, My unit is a Actron CP7672. Here is a link to what it looks like.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...223062-9504905
Perhaps, we could start there..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...223062-9504905
Perhaps, we could start there..
#59
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Originally Posted by james tharp
im not seeing the horizontal line with 3 dots,, My unit is a Actron CP7672. Here is a link to what it looks like.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...223062-9504905
Perhaps, we could start there..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...223062-9504905
Perhaps, we could start there..
#60
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Put the wires in the connections as given above and set the meter just like it is in the picture to measure your battery voltage.
To measure the coil resistance, leave the connections as they are and move the swtich to 200 ohms...6 o'clock position.
To measure the coil resistance, leave the connections as they are and move the swtich to 200 ohms...6 o'clock position.