Coil testing question
#1
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Coil testing question
Hey everyone, happy Saturday!
I just looked at the coil testing article iin Tech Info, so I decided I'd try testing my coil pack to see if that was the reason for my lack of spark. (and also because it'* a hell of a lot easier to get to than the crankshaft sensor)...
Anyway, all the primaries seem fine (0.9 ohms) but I'm not sure what to make of the secondaries, where I'm getting 12.5k across each pair... The article says it should be between 5 and 8k.
So is this a big red light? or is it something not to worry about and move on to the next peice?
-Nik
I just looked at the coil testing article iin Tech Info, so I decided I'd try testing my coil pack to see if that was the reason for my lack of spark. (and also because it'* a hell of a lot easier to get to than the crankshaft sensor)...
Anyway, all the primaries seem fine (0.9 ohms) but I'm not sure what to make of the secondaries, where I'm getting 12.5k across each pair... The article says it should be between 5 and 8k.
So is this a big red light? or is it something not to worry about and move on to the next peice?
-Nik
#2
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My initial thought is that since they all test the same, they are probably ok.
You can use a DVM or a scope to check for the presence of the crank sensor signals at the ignition module. But you have to have the connector hooked to the module while probing for the signals. I don't know exactly which year your car is.
The way I did mine was to remove the connector, and use wire wrap wire (this is very thin insulated 30 gauge wire) tucked in beside the pins I wanted to probe. The wire was small enough to let me plug the connector back in, with the small wires fitting in between the connector and the module.
You don't want to remove the crank sensor unless you know it is bad.
You can use a DVM or a scope to check for the presence of the crank sensor signals at the ignition module. But you have to have the connector hooked to the module while probing for the signals. I don't know exactly which year your car is.
The way I did mine was to remove the connector, and use wire wrap wire (this is very thin insulated 30 gauge wire) tucked in beside the pins I wanted to probe. The wire was small enough to let me plug the connector back in, with the small wires fitting in between the connector and the module.
You don't want to remove the crank sensor unless you know it is bad.
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I'm thinking I'm just going to take it up to have someone look at it,
that'* what my dad'* wanting me to do anyway. I really just don't have the mechanical knonw-how to get this thing taken care of.
I can't say I didn't try though, but not having a vehical I can count on is really starting to become an issue.
Once I get my 92 fixed though, I don't have any plans on leaving this place, it seems pretty cool.
that'* what my dad'* wanting me to do anyway. I really just don't have the mechanical knonw-how to get this thing taken care of.
I can't say I didn't try though, but not having a vehical I can count on is really starting to become an issue.
Once I get my 92 fixed though, I don't have any plans on leaving this place, it seems pretty cool.
#4
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I think I still have my stock coils kicking around here somewhere. One was bad cold, one only bad when hot, but I could do some comparisons for you if you wanted. My MSD coils will be totally different.
That reminds me, this would be a cool way to compare the 97+ SSEi coils to the 'mild' coils the other models got, and to the MSD as well. May have to pull some coils for comparison during WCBF.
Just remember, if a coil reads fine cold, it may not be hot. Using a megohmeter would be the best way to test them under load. (crank style ohmmeter that 'loads' the circuit to test it under stress).
That reminds me, this would be a cool way to compare the 97+ SSEi coils to the 'mild' coils the other models got, and to the MSD as well. May have to pull some coils for comparison during WCBF.
Just remember, if a coil reads fine cold, it may not be hot. Using a megohmeter would be the best way to test them under load. (crank style ohmmeter that 'loads' the circuit to test it under stress).
#5
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Willren,
When I was testing inputs into the ICM I would use a paper clip and insert it from the back, where the wire goes into the connector (the rubber seal). It slides right in along the wire until it bottoms out in the connector which is where it makes connection with the pin. I would then use an alligator clip on the paper clip. Works great.
When I was testing inputs into the ICM I would use a paper clip and insert it from the back, where the wire goes into the connector (the rubber seal). It slides right in along the wire until it bottoms out in the connector which is where it makes connection with the pin. I would then use an alligator clip on the paper clip. Works great.