Car stalled *UPDATE*
#11
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"A Trunk PCM"
LOL! That'* just too funny. Sorry for the hijack, but that just made me fall outta my chair.
Whew..oh boy....heh heh...
Thanks, Don! I needed that!
LOL! That'* just too funny. Sorry for the hijack, but that just made me fall outta my chair.
Whew..oh boy....heh heh...
Thanks, Don! I needed that!
#12
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
[
On #3 here( finally got a good one )...
On #3 here( finally got a good one )...
#13
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I will certainly remember that for future reference. Hopefully I won't need it, but who knows? Now, I need to figure out why I keep losing coolant. Any thoughts? Gonna take it to a real good radiator place soon and see what they say. Just replaced the water pump few months ago. I've been runnin straight water cuz coolant is too expensive. Not sure where coolant is gong. Figure it'* probably a leaky hose. When I had the water pump doen I thought it was the radiator and they siaid it was the pump, so we'll see what the radiator place says. I know it'* not the reservoir bottle cuz I took it out and checked it.
#14
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And of course, you've checked you oil to look for discoloration, brown oil, or milky oil, right? No white smoke on start up?
One thing you can do if you suspect a leak somewhere in the cooling system is to run it until the thermostat opens up at 195*. Your system will pressurize and your leak will often start to show. A pinhole leak in a Rad hose will open up and start leaking (sometimes spraying); a heater hose leak will show itself, and a rad leak will often start dripping at that point. Try that before taking in somewhere.
Oh and BTW, running it on straight water isn't the best for your engine or your cooling system. It'* will overheat easier and is very corrosive to your system. At the very least, buy the local parts store brand antifreeze and run that.
One thing you can do if you suspect a leak somewhere in the cooling system is to run it until the thermostat opens up at 195*. Your system will pressurize and your leak will often start to show. A pinhole leak in a Rad hose will open up and start leaking (sometimes spraying); a heater hose leak will show itself, and a rad leak will often start dripping at that point. Try that before taking in somewhere.
Oh and BTW, running it on straight water isn't the best for your engine or your cooling system. It'* will overheat easier and is very corrosive to your system. At the very least, buy the local parts store brand antifreeze and run that.
#15
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Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Originally Posted by jr's3800
[
On #3 here( finally got a good one )...
On #3 here( finally got a good one )...
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lash Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:07 pm Post subject:
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And of course, you've checked you oil to look for discoloration, brown oil, or milky oil, right? No white smoke on start up?
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And of course, you've checked you oil to look for discoloration, brown oil, or milky oil, right? No white smoke on start up?
lash Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:07 pm Post subject:
One thing you can do if you suspect a leak somewhere in the cooling system is to run it until the thermostat opens up at 195*. Your system will pressurize and your leak will often start to show. A pinhole leak in a Rad hose will open up and start leaking (sometimes spraying); a heater hose leak will show itself, and a rad leak will often start dripping at that point. Try that before taking in somewhere.
Oh and BTW, running it on straight water isn't the best for your engine or your cooling system. It'* will overheat easier and is very corrosive to your system. At the very least, buy the local parts store brand antifreeze and run that.
One thing you can do if you suspect a leak somewhere in the cooling system is to run it until the thermostat opens up at 195*. Your system will pressurize and your leak will often start to show. A pinhole leak in a Rad hose will open up and start leaking (sometimes spraying); a heater hose leak will show itself, and a rad leak will often start dripping at that point. Try that before taking in somewhere.
Oh and BTW, running it on straight water isn't the best for your engine or your cooling system. It'* will overheat easier and is very corrosive to your system. At the very least, buy the local parts store brand antifreeze and run that.
Never though of the corrosivie factor, makes sense though. But I was going through a bottle every week or so. Almost as bad as gas.
#17
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Originally Posted by tallbump
Drove fine all week, then died on Sunday. Problem solved-fuel pump. $280 with parts & labor and she'll be good as new. Should have her back tomorrow.
#18
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TheEngineer Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:29 pm Post subject:
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tallbump wrote:
Drove fine all week, then died on Sunday. Problem solved-fuel pump. $280 with parts & labor and she'll be good as new. Should have her back tomorrow.
I was going to recommend a fuel system issue, but it looks like you found it. Hard starts are a good indicator of insufficient fuel pressure. As for your coolant, you are probably losing it at the LIM gasket. The stock LIM gasket is nothing short of junk.
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tallbump wrote:
Drove fine all week, then died on Sunday. Problem solved-fuel pump. $280 with parts & labor and she'll be good as new. Should have her back tomorrow.
I was going to recommend a fuel system issue, but it looks like you found it. Hard starts are a good indicator of insufficient fuel pressure. As for your coolant, you are probably losing it at the LIM gasket. The stock LIM gasket is nothing short of junk.
So, I'll risk sounding dumb, but I need to know, what is a LIM gasket, how much $ , and how hard to replace?
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LIM = Lower intake manifold. Should be in the $50 range and they are pretty easy. I did mine in a couple afternoons with sweltering heat slowing me down, so in decent weather it should be a one day deal.
#20
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Have you read this article? Explains a couple of very common problems that all L-36 owners should know about. Has a pic of a better LIM gasket, too.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38