Actually that'* your fender cross-brace; the anti-sway bar is underneath.

Let me clarify this: You've got a hot wire from somewhere connected to the motor terminal; you have a ground wire from the motor'* mounting plate (or ground terminal) going to a good ground on the body someplace, and the motor won't turn at all? I guess it'* toast.

One thing you might try, since you have it out now anyway: Get yourself a spray can of brake cleaner and blast the motor armature and brush assemblies as thoroughly as possible through the access/cooling hole(*) in the side. You should be able to get them a little shinier and cleaner. Let dry (or blow out with air), dribble a few drops of light oil on the motor bearings at both ends (the blind cap end, if you can reach in there, and the area where the motor shaft emerges from the front plate), then try it again. I have to give this treatment to the blower on our '96 Trans Sport about every 2 years or so, but it'* a quick fix.

Can i get some picture of where the relays are located at? Are the on the fire wall and where are they at on the fire wall if that is where they are?

If your '94 LE/SE is like my '93 SSEi, you should have a large plastic cover across the firewall labeled "MaxiFuse/Relay Center" in large raised letters. Unlocking the fasteners and (carefully) removing the cover should reveal a number of relays. I'm hoping someone else can jump in here to point you to the right one, as I don't have that info here.

However, you just told us that the blower seems to be dead when you try to bench test it using a hot 12-volt wire and a ground. Is that the case?

no every time i plug it up to a 12v battery it will run and it does not mater what the angle is on it will run but not with the plug. i will look when i get off work.

Assuming that you're properly grounding it when you try to hook up the car'* own power wire, you're either getting no power at all (i.e. a test light shows no juice in the power lead) or not enough power (i.e. you can measure 12 volts, but the wiring connections are so corroded that you can't get sufficient amperage to spin the motor).

Have you located the resistor pack in the ductwork yet? It would be interesting to pull that out and see what condition it'* in, as well as how rotted the plug on it may be. It'* screwed into the ductwork (so the blower'* airflow will cool it) under the hood very near the blower motor, with a multi-wire plug on it. I'm thinking your main problem may be there.

i checked the amps on it and it is only reading 6mA. lol i think it should be above that by a lot. im thinking that it should be about 15As or more.. and that is at the plug with the control on low and high and every where in between them. ok so the wires that go to the blower motor go back to a mult-plug thing and the relay is some where near there? i need to know how to test a relay and which one it is one the fire wall too?

here is a picture i took of the relays and every thing right there and yeah for me i found out how to use photo bucket. lol. just tell me or circle the one that i need to test.

I just replaced mine. It ran fine on the bench when cool but crapped out as it heated up in the car.

I wouldn't do a whole lot of farting around with it. They're only $45 at the parts puppies.

Replace it.

so what one is the one for the blower motor?

so what one is it? look at the picture above to find out.