Back again for help.....rough idle.
#42
Jumping in w/o being able to read the thread (work ya know)
Anyone checked for vac leaks. Lately we've seen a few EGR tubes from EGR to lower intake with a crack, causing the leak.
Anyone checked for vac leaks. Lately we've seen a few EGR tubes from EGR to lower intake with a crack, causing the leak.
#43
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Jumping in w/o being able to read the thread (work ya know)
Anyone checked for vac leaks. Lately we've seen a few EGR tubes from EGR to lower intake with a crack, causing the leak.
Anyone checked for vac leaks. Lately we've seen a few EGR tubes from EGR to lower intake with a crack, causing the leak.
Zeroburnz...BTW, since it'* been brought back up, did you ever verify that your EGR tube was solid with no cracks anywhere?
#44
May have overlooked that one, is it a vacuum connector similar to the others I had replaced? I do know where the EGR is but anyone have a pic showing the EGR tube? thanks.
#45
The EGR tube is tucked in tight on the driver'* side of the motor alongside the block.
Here'* someone else'* pic I stole from another thread. His pic shows where the EGR had a hole. A fairly common area for vacuum breach.
You can also search for "EGR Tube" and read some recent threads on this.
Note that this pic is from a '94 L27, not your '97 L36, but that'* what an EGR tube looks like. It is not just a cheap easy fix though, like the vacuum tubes were. Though the hardest part is getting the replacement tube.
Here'* someone else'* pic I stole from another thread. His pic shows where the EGR had a hole. A fairly common area for vacuum breach.
You can also search for "EGR Tube" and read some recent threads on this.
Note that this pic is from a '94 L27, not your '97 L36, but that'* what an EGR tube looks like. It is not just a cheap easy fix though, like the vacuum tubes were. Though the hardest part is getting the replacement tube.
#46
ok, gonna check for cracks in the EGR tube. What should the resistance of the plug wire be at ? The seal around the MAP sensor is broken, can i just replace that seal or do I need to buy a new sensor? Also noticed that the CEL has been going off more often than before. The car seems alot smoother for a while then the light comes back on and its back to crap again.
#47
Originally Posted by zeroburnz
...What should the resistance of the plug wire be at ? The seal around the MAP sensor is broken, can i just replace that seal or do I need to buy a new sensor?...
Additionally, I suggest you test the resistance of the ignition (spark plug) wire for that cylinder. The resistance should be 30K ohms.
#49
The MAP sensor seal is broken, on my car the seal is orange...doesn't look like the other connector seals since its round. Don't know about getting a whole new sensor but would putting a little silicone around there be a fix?Also don't know if you got the idea from my last post but the CEL comes and goes randomly. Still getting a P0303 (cylinder 3 misifre) as the only code. It doesn't sound like a mechanical problem to me and some others I've talked to, we're thinking more along the lines of electrical. Anyway I overlooked what the resistance was supposed to be on the plug wire a ways back, I'll check it out.
#50
check the plug and the wire... but expect that the coil is probably bad.
LMK if you need one to test with. You might only have an issue with it when the car is warmed up and the coil has also warmed up.
Is that the only CEL?
On the MAF seal. I happen to have a wiring harness at home and may be able to get the seal for you. The problem with using silicone is it would be more permanent than you want. Being on top of the engine..this shouldn't pose a problem as it doesn't get wet often. Is the seal torn or missing...maybe a picture would help out in this case.
LMK if you need one to test with. You might only have an issue with it when the car is warmed up and the coil has also warmed up.
Is that the only CEL?
On the MAF seal. I happen to have a wiring harness at home and may be able to get the seal for you. The problem with using silicone is it would be more permanent than you want. Being on top of the engine..this shouldn't pose a problem as it doesn't get wet often. Is the seal torn or missing...maybe a picture would help out in this case.