Well, Duh...guess I should have read the whole thread again!

I'm sending myself to my room for breaking my own rule!

Replacing the meter'* battery sounds like a really good idea. I just tested a 100 watt light bulb & got a reading of 10.8 ohms. Thought it would be an easy way to double check your meter. I imagine different brand bulbs will give different readings but should be fairly close +/- 30% ?

Well it'* not the coils. I picked up some new ones and they give me the same readings on my meter as the old ones. Must be something to do with that particular meter, strange, it reads everything else correctly.

Any suggestions? Next thing I'm going to try is the crankshaft position sensor, as it'* cheaper than an new ICM.

Don't throw money at it until we check a few things. Did you check all the fuses? Check drivers side & passenger side under the dash. If no fuses are blown check for power going to the ICM. Remove the wiring harness from the ICM & check for 12 volts at the pink (pink/black some years) wire . It'* on one end of the connector. Key needs to be in the run position while checking.

Edit - Before doing this test check your meter by checking the battery voltage.

Checked fuses already. All good.

I'll check the ICM voltage and post back.

11.84V on the pink ICM connector wire.

Alright, this confirms the meter is faulty on resistance scale. Those coil secondaries should read 5-8 k ohms as previously stated. Not to go off topic, but a side note. What brand & type digital multi-meter do you have?

It'* a Di-LoG DL235 Clamp Meter. Not an inexpensive one either...

Oh, it reads the light bulb correctly, as above, i get 10.3ohms on a 100Watt bulb.

We need to take a step backward & have you tell us how you determined it'* not getting spark. If it'* not sparking you have it down to wires/plugs, ICM or crank sensor. The wires/plugs aren't likely if you checked more than one. ICM & crank sensor you'll have to decide which to try first.

Do you know anyone with a GM car that you can swap ICMs with as a test?