I have a 1999 SE that will not blow air out of the vents - defrost and floor only. I found the articles on the nipple issue and checked vacuum to the pink hose that feeds the vent system. I don't feel or hear any vacuum out of the black hose that the pink hose plugs into. I've tried to trace the black hose but it gets lost in the mess of dash and wires. I guess I'm wondering where that hose goes. I don't know where the issue is coming from and I can't trace the hose. Does someone have a full diagram of the vacuum lines that could be causing this or point me in the right direction, please? Thanks.

If it is similar to my 96' Park Ave then the wire goes through the wire loom in the doorway, then goes into the back of the upper intake manifold, on mine it hooks ion at the rear center of the upper intake manifold, the brake booster also hooks up at the same spot..
Yours may be different though, but that will give you somewhere to look at least.

Thanks, William. Yeah. It'* in the same spot. I found it earlier after untaping all of the wires. There was a blockage in the line and I ended up replacing all of the hoses that connect to the Y connector.

The good news: I now have air coming out of the vents.

The bad news: After a test drive, I now have a gas leak on the rear fuel line/rail connector.

Could these be related incidents? Did I get more pressure in the fuel system now?

It is good to replace all of those hoses, the soft EVAP ones anyway, after a decade or so they all become so brittle that you have to replace them.
I had to replace some of my rubber connectors as well.

I am betting the gas leak is from the 2 o-rings in the connector, I had the same leak, if you barely press down on the connector while key is in ON position it sprays out a little I bet.
I have a thread somewhere about mine when it leaked, I ordered several different o-rings before getting the right ones, and once I got the right ones it was really hard for me to get them in there, well the innermost one anyway.
I ended up getting proper rated fuel injection hose, and looked on the left side of my car, bottom of engine bay, and I cut that line, hoked the hose to it, and clamped it.
Then I removed the quick connect connector from the fuel rail, slid the hose on, and clamped it.
I'm not sure what to suggest as if you get the o-rings, and a pick set, then you may get lucky and be able to replace both of them once you remove the old ones, if you cannot replace them you are stuck with having to consider the method I took.
I have heard a few say they replaced them easily, so maybe I was just unlucky.

They have a fuel line repair kit, I tried it, the thing is I could not heat up the line enough to slide the line over the copper barb used to hold the two together.
If you don't cut it to splice just right, then it is almost impossible to get to splice up, you have to have a cut where the straight part of the line coming from the connector is, if you cut it in the *-curve it won't work..
Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Dorman 800-059 Nylon Fuel Line Repairkit


I just read another thread where a guy had issues getting the o-rings replaced, he opted to go the route I went.
If you do that the hose dimensions are below.
OD is 3/8"
ID is 5/16"
A 3/8 fuel injection clamp would be needed.

I'll see if I can find links for the o-rigs you need in case you opt to do it that way, will have to look in the morning though, had a long day and falling asleep at the wheel, lol

EDIT: I think these are the needed o-rings, need to verify though, I think the ones for steel lines may be different than the ones for nylon lines,
As mentioned you will need a set of picks, and needle nose pliers to try to replace them.

Dorman OE Solutions - Fuel Line O-Ring Kit
Part # 800-013

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1650&ppt=C0290

Thanks a bunch, William. I'm going to attempt to replace the o-rings. If I can avoid splicing the fuel line, I'd rather go that route. I purchased a pack of fuel injector o-rings instead. I should probably return them and get the fuel line o-ring kit.

If I do need to replace the connector, is it a problem to shorten the Dorman repair line to about 4-5 inches? It seems like it is far too long and would be much simpler to replace the near end of the fuel line.

Yeah you can return the injector o-rings, they will not fit.
It took me ordering several so called correct fit o-rings before I finally got the right ones.
Since I was unable to get them in I may still have them, let me check.
Yeah I still have that Dorman 800-013 set, and they really do not look the same size as the ones I removed.
I heard you can get them from the dealer, but I doubt that because they always want you to replace the whole line back to where it becomes metal.

You could buy two of the Nylon Fuel Line Repair Kits, and remove the o-rings from one, and try to replace them, if that fails then you can try to cut the line and repair it.
You can cut the kit'* line down a good bit, just leave at least enough for the brass barb to fully seat into it.
You can get the barb seated into the new cut to fit connector line while inside, they recommend boiling water and some pliers as you don't want to burn yourself, I actually used a heat gun since there was no fuel in that new connector, and I was inside away from all fuel sources.
The outside part is going to be tricky, the line won't stay warm enough to slide the barb all the way in for long, and since it is still attached to the fuel source for the car you are pretty much limited to boiling water, not sure of any easy way to fo that to be honest, but others have pulled it off.

If you remove the o-rings pay attention to which comes out first, they will most likely be yellow, and brown.
They need to go back in as they came out, they are not exactly the same size.
I'll attach a pic, in the pic the o-rings on top are the ones that came out if my connector, the bottom ones are from that steel line Dorman Ring kit, you can see they are smaller and won't work.

I ended up pulling the o-rings from the Dorman 800-059 Nylon Fuel Line Repair Kit and put them into my original fuel line. After pulling the old o-rings out, the spacer between them slid up and down. I pushed the spacer down, inserted the top o-ring from the kit, pushed it up, and was able to wedge the bottom o-ring into its slot. I think I got pretty lucky, but from start to finish, I was able to do it all in about an hour.

Thanks a lot for your help, William. It was invaluable advice. I now have full AC out of the vents and a sealed fuel line.

That may have been my issue, I did not notice the spacer sliding down, thanks for letting me know that happens with them.
Happy to be able to help, glad you got that leak fixed, it was a fire hazard for sure!