Ha! Now I have a low oil level light! If I don't laugh I'm gonna cry. And, I guess a guy ain't gonna just drop that passenger side relay panel to get at that fuel pump relay between sips of his morning latte...UNSERVICEABLE. Then went to get a relay at the yard to hook up the fuel pump relay right, and ripped, and I mean RIPPED, a '96 Bonnie apart to see what it would take...UGLY. Decided to just totally bypass it by using another relay with its' own socket, so that I had wires to work with. Didn't make any difference, but at least my pump primes up and then shuts off with key on now, as it should.

Got voltage at WD16 on PCM, so now at least I know none of this funky wiring is due to that signal not working. That'* the wire that goes to the fuel pump relay. My Dad wants to spring for that Actron scanner that is supposed to work with OBD 1.5...considering that, might start researching it, but also noticed that the exhaust is pretty nasty, and now when the light comes on after clearing, there is an immediate nasty stumble...O2 sensor? Is that stumble indicative of limp home mode?

MealPlease

No telling what'* going on. Gonna need those codes.

Alright UNCLE ALREADY... guess it'll be Dads' x-mas gift to me...am I looking at that Actron CP9145? What cable?

UncleMeal

Not to drag this out or second-guess this to death, but today I asked some more specific questions of the tech guru before I spend somebody elses' money. Regarding the scanner, he said he uses Snap-On, but that over the years he has had plenty of the hybrid GMs and he has never had a problem. Regarding my car, he said he tried both OBDI scanner with the OBDII cable and standard OBDII scanner, and neither worked. I said well there are at least two affordable Actron scanners that have worked for people with these cars, and he said 'I suspect they won't work on this car'.

As far as the CEL/fault, I said well, all I can think of is O2 sensor at this point, and he said 'no, the light would take longer to come on. It'* searching for something that'* disconnected, or there'* a short to ground'. Now, I've known this guy for 30 years, worked with him when he was a fairly new mechanic with not much formal training, and even back then he had a scary ability to diagnose things. He'* MONEY on stuff like this. So I better listen. Plus, the part about the light coming on sooner if something is disconnected is consistent with what Mike1995 shared on one of his posts. So what do I know at this point? Circuit 839, power feed to the ignition module, and circuit 120, power to the fuel pump, are bypassed and hotwired. Both of these circuits connect at the fuel pump relay. 839 also goes thru the oil pressure sending unit. I need to get up in these circuits and try to detect an issue, especially if there'* a chance that it is also preventing scanning of the PCM. BTW, what does IPC stand for on wiring diagram? --

Mealness

Oh, and I know that the crankshaft position sensor met with a violent end at the hands of a renegade serpentine belt and failed...and since the cam sensor is electrically connected to both the crank sensor and the ignition control module, plenty of opportunity there for a short, either in the sensor or the wiring. Easy to check...

Unless the light is tripping because of a crank relearn is needed.

Still to this day, I have a hard time negotiating Actrons website and for the life of me cannot figure out which one has the proper cable for your application. I suggest calling their 800 # and ask them specifically what you need.

Mike1995 - I was unaware of this crank relearn thing. Can I use the process of driving it above 55 since I can't use the scan method?

MealMeal

I was implying that it might be or might not be in the programming.

But either way...I'm gonna make you say Uncle again LOL.

IPC= instrument panel cluster


from actron:

Which Actron Code Scanners and/or Scan Tools work on 1994 & 1995 GM vehicles?
1994 & 1995 GM vehicles were equipped with several different engine computer systems. Follow these steps, in sequence to determine what diagnostic tool is right for your vehicle:

1. Find the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) in your vehicle:

If the PCM is a black box with cooling fins located under the hood, your vehicle is most likely OBD II.
To confirm that your vehicle is OBD II-compliant, check the Emissions Decal located in the engine compartment.
If you determine that your vehicle is OBD II compliant, use either the SPANISH OBD II AutoScanner CP9138S, OBD II AutoScanner CP9135, PocketScan Code Reader CP9125, the SUPER AutoScanner CP9145 or the SUPER AutoScanner Kit CP9150.
If the PCM is a silver box located in the interior of the vehicle, proceed to Step 2.


2. Find the DLC (Diagnostic Link Connector) under the dashboard, usually on the driver'* side:

If the DLC is a 16-pin D-shaped connector, your vehicle is OBD I-equipped, but with the OBD II connector. The proper tool is a SUPER AutoScanner CP9145 or the SUPER AutoScanner Kit CP9150.
If the DLC is a 12-pin rectangular connector, proceed to Step 3.


3. If Pin "B" is present in the 12-pin connector:

Use the GM Code Scanner CP9001or
The SUPER AutoScanner CP9145 with a GM ALDL Cable CP9127 or use the SUPER AutoScanner Kit CP9150.


4. If Pin "B" is not present in the 12-pin connector:

Use the SUPER AutoScanner CP9145 with a GM ALDL Cable CP9127 or use the SUPER AutoScanner Kit CP9150.






crank relearn might be a tech 2 or tech 1 thing. in regular obd2 some of the more expensive units will do it but not sure on obd 1.5

Justin to the rescue with the Actron info.