94 Bonneville SE costing out the behind an still no clue
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I reckon it would depend on what you want to call old.
The day my pump went dead I had 3/4 of a tank of gas I had just put into it. My husband drained the tank then dropped it an the remaining gas in it he dumped out. By the time they put the gas back in an did a few test runs around the block it needed more gas. I went an put more gas in it.
After doing some more test runs around the block and idling in the drive way I once again had to put more gas in it.
The amount of gas I have put in it for the amount of time I have not been able to drive it is over 50 bucks. When my car broke down Gas was 2.01 a gallon now its 2.50+.
So if your suggestion might be old gas it is not. I will find out some time tomarrow whats wrong. As I have said a very kind hearted member is helping me a ton. And it is greatly appreciated.
Jammie
The day my pump went dead I had 3/4 of a tank of gas I had just put into it. My husband drained the tank then dropped it an the remaining gas in it he dumped out. By the time they put the gas back in an did a few test runs around the block it needed more gas. I went an put more gas in it.
After doing some more test runs around the block and idling in the drive way I once again had to put more gas in it.
The amount of gas I have put in it for the amount of time I have not been able to drive it is over 50 bucks. When my car broke down Gas was 2.01 a gallon now its 2.50+.
So if your suggestion might be old gas it is not. I will find out some time tomarrow whats wrong. As I have said a very kind hearted member is helping me a ton. And it is greatly appreciated.
Jammie
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Ok heres the problem. The only code the scanner is bringing up is the "Throttle Position Sensor" is reading low. Thats the only error we have recieved.
Jammie
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There are three things we need to know.
Are you getting spark from all three coils?
Are you getting fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
Are you getting a pulse at the fuel injectors?
If you need to know how to check any of these three things then let us know.
Are you getting spark from all three coils?
Are you getting fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
Are you getting a pulse at the fuel injectors?
If you need to know how to check any of these three things then let us know.
#34
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I think I know how to test them. But any information on making our jobs a bit easier is appreciated. We have a repair book on this car an I have read it about a billion times. If im not mistaken the coils you use a ac/v tester? I had a print out around here some where from the site about how to test them.
The fuel rail no clue on how to test.
Also no clue on the injectors. As I have said any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Jammie
The fuel rail no clue on how to test.
Also no clue on the injectors. As I have said any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Jammie
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Coil testing is in TechInfo. You're testing Ohms.
You need a Fuel Pressure Guage to test the fuel pressure. $40 or so at AutoZone.
To test for pulse at the injectors you use a lightbulb (3056 maybe) and unbend the leads. Stick those in the injector connector and see if you get it to blink when you crank. There is a specific tool that plugs right in and all, But I don't see the cost worthwhile for you.
You need a Fuel Pressure Guage to test the fuel pressure. $40 or so at AutoZone.
To test for pulse at the injectors you use a lightbulb (3056 maybe) and unbend the leads. Stick those in the injector connector and see if you get it to blink when you crank. There is a specific tool that plugs right in and all, But I don't see the cost worthwhile for you.
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All three things are quite simple to check.
You can just pull a spark plug wire from a plug & then put the wire on a spare plug. Rest the base of the plug on something metal & look for spark while someone tries starting the engine. If you have spark at all three front cylinders then all three coils are sparking. Another method is to remove both wires from a coil and hold a screwdriver so the metal shaft is resting on one post & the end of the screwdriver is about a 1/4" from the the other post. Watch for spark as the engine is cranked. Check all three.
There is a schrader valve (like the valve stem on a tire) on the fuel rail. Just remove the cap & press the center of the valve. Fuel should spray out. Put some rags under the valve to catch the gas that comes out. Position your hands so the fuel can't spray you in the face. Before testing turn the key on a couple times to pressurize the system.
You can use a #194 automotive light bulb to check for injector pulse. Just straighten out the wires on the bulb & plug it into the wiring harness for one of the fuel injectors. Bulb will pulse as the engine is cranked. Look carefully for the pulse. The bulb never goes on or off all the way - it just pulses.
Let us know what you find.
You can just pull a spark plug wire from a plug & then put the wire on a spare plug. Rest the base of the plug on something metal & look for spark while someone tries starting the engine. If you have spark at all three front cylinders then all three coils are sparking. Another method is to remove both wires from a coil and hold a screwdriver so the metal shaft is resting on one post & the end of the screwdriver is about a 1/4" from the the other post. Watch for spark as the engine is cranked. Check all three.
There is a schrader valve (like the valve stem on a tire) on the fuel rail. Just remove the cap & press the center of the valve. Fuel should spray out. Put some rags under the valve to catch the gas that comes out. Position your hands so the fuel can't spray you in the face. Before testing turn the key on a couple times to pressurize the system.
You can use a #194 automotive light bulb to check for injector pulse. Just straighten out the wires on the bulb & plug it into the wiring harness for one of the fuel injectors. Bulb will pulse as the engine is cranked. Look carefully for the pulse. The bulb never goes on or off all the way - it just pulses.
Let us know what you find.
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Ok I will have my Husband check these probably Sunday we are suppose to have severe weather tomarrow. Dont want the hubby getting hurt in the process of trying to fix our car.
Also I read on the forums about the TPS causing problems with the cruise control. Well if this helps the cruise stopped working like 3 months ago maybe longer it was shortly after our SES light came on.
But anyways one step at a time I know. Im just wanting my car back. :(
I also want to thank everyone who has took the time to help its very much appreciated.
I will post back in a few days with my findings.
Thank you
Jammie
Also I read on the forums about the TPS causing problems with the cruise control. Well if this helps the cruise stopped working like 3 months ago maybe longer it was shortly after our SES light came on.
But anyways one step at a time I know. Im just wanting my car back. :(
I also want to thank everyone who has took the time to help its very much appreciated.
I will post back in a few days with my findings.
Thank you
Jammie
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My husband tested all this morning. He says everything is how it should be. The scantool is showing no misfire. The TPS however is reading only .01 on close throttle an not even .05 on wide open throttle. We are replacing the TPS tomarrow. I'll post an let you know if this fixes it.
Jammie
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Ok heres the deal. TPS has been replaced. It is set like it should be on idle its reading 0.43 on WOT its reading 4.55 I think it was. Cruise control is now working. Took it to get gas had soem misfires on 3,4,5 . Ran fine other then the missfires.
Got it home shut it off cranked it a few more times. Then all of a sudden it wouldnt start. It seems it was either flooded. Or my car dont like gas. Seems everytime we put gas in it we have a hard time getting it started again. Finally it did start. The SES light is now gone an no error codes are coming up. Driving wise everything seems fine except the misfires.
Jammie
Now it wont start it is acting like it isnt getting gas when it is.
Update: Ok went out there this morning it wouldnt start i turned the key a few times to prime it an it started. Let it run about 5 minutes cut it off tried to start it wouldnt. So as Im canking to start i press gas real fast let go an it starts. Do that a few more times starts. Seems like it only starts when i press the gas the same time im cranking.
Got it home shut it off cranked it a few more times. Then all of a sudden it wouldnt start. It seems it was either flooded. Or my car dont like gas. Seems everytime we put gas in it we have a hard time getting it started again. Finally it did start. The SES light is now gone an no error codes are coming up. Driving wise everything seems fine except the misfires.
Jammie
Now it wont start it is acting like it isnt getting gas when it is.
Update: Ok went out there this morning it wouldnt start i turned the key a few times to prime it an it started. Let it run about 5 minutes cut it off tried to start it wouldnt. So as Im canking to start i press gas real fast let go an it starts. Do that a few more times starts. Seems like it only starts when i press the gas the same time im cranking.
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Let me see if this accurately summarizes your car'* current condition:
1) Hard starting, especially after getting gas.
2) Still misfires on 3, 4, and 5
3) Otherwise, drivability is good.
Do you trust it well enough to get you around and back home?
My only idea at this point is to drive it with a fuel system treatment and see if any of the symptoms get any better.
Does anyone else have any other ideas or suggestions?
1) Hard starting, especially after getting gas.
![Shocked](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
2) Still misfires on 3, 4, and 5
3) Otherwise, drivability is good.
Do you trust it well enough to get you around and back home?
My only idea at this point is to drive it with a fuel system treatment and see if any of the symptoms get any better.
Does anyone else have any other ideas or suggestions?