You mention the plug was wet from coolant. Was that on the end that is in the engine? Because your post led me to believe it was that end...yet a heater hose will only coat the outside of the plug. Not the firing end.

Tested injector and injector wiring it checked out. WRT the coolant on the plug, it was external. I panicked when I saw it...thought maybe I'd botched the UIM/LIM gasket job a few months back but I realized the coolant was on the threads of the plug too. Decided to just install new plugs and see what I got...most of the plugs looked pretty dirty from the last remnants of coolant burning off after I fixed the UIM/LIM rupture in April. New plugs...started like a charm...no check engine light. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes.

Created a new problem for myself though. As I mentioned heater hose had developed a leak so I replaced both heater hoses. When I was moving the big wiring bundle out of the way to get back in the back to get at the hose clamps, I felt something pop. Initial check didn't turn up any apparent issues but now that I've got his car reassembled, new plugs, etc. it runs great but the Oil Pressure guage is completely dead.

I assume that'* the oil pressure sending unit? Seems to be about the right place to account for the pop I felt. What'* the easiest way to get at the unit? If I broke a wire...what does that mean I will have to do...splice the wire...buy a new one and run it all the way from the sensor to ... where...somewhere in the dash but it'* bundled with a bunch of other wires and this is looking like a pain in the making.

Any ideas or help? Thanks guys.

Let me start this over. Heather hose replaced, no leaks. Plug is dry, no foul but still getting a misfire on Cylinder #2. Something I forgot to mention the first time is that right after the trouble started, I had intermittent trouble starting the car. It would start to crank, then go completely dead (but interior lights stayed on so not the battery). If I pulled the negative terminal on the battery and reconnected it and tried again, it would start. Sometimes it took two or three tries, sometimes it started first go. Could this be a bad ICM or either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor? One of the latter two could also throw off the speedometer, right?