1993 SSEi SC Gauge readings, Traction Control, Perf question
#11
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Pressing the Ride or Shift buttons will have no effect on traction control. Traction control is only affected by pressing the button labelled "Traction Control". Attemptig to change traction control by pressing other buttons will prove to have no result on traction control.
The buttons operate this way (if applicable on your car)
Performance Shift or Normal Shift, press the button for the shifting you prefer. The light should be on the button you pressed indicating that as the current mode.
Traction Control, default for the system should be a lit button, pressing the button should turn off the light and the words "Traction Off" should appear on the dashboard cluster to indicate that you have turned the traction control off.
Touring Ride or Performance Ride, (known as CCR system) press the button for the ride quality you prefer. The light should be on the button you pressed indicating that as the current mode.
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The buttons operate this way (if applicable on your car)
Performance Shift or Normal Shift, press the button for the shifting you prefer. The light should be on the button you pressed indicating that as the current mode.
Traction Control, default for the system should be a lit button, pressing the button should turn off the light and the words "Traction Off" should appear on the dashboard cluster to indicate that you have turned the traction control off.
Touring Ride or Performance Ride, (known as CCR system) press the button for the ride quality you prefer. The light should be on the button you pressed indicating that as the current mode.
#12
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Hi Everyone,
First of all, thanks for your quick responses. You folks are great.
So, I've changed the plugs, ignition wires, engine oil & filter, and things have improved quite a bit, however when at crusing speed (80km/h, 50mph) and I hammer on the gas, it still bucks, and almost sounds like it'* choking, sputtering is a good word for it. The */C needle jumps around when this happens.
Now, if I go easy on it: ease the throttle and bring the revs up, get the */c gauge past 0 into the boost area, then it takes off! Wow this thing flies!
I should mention that sometimes when you first start the car, the low idle is really rough. My wife told me, "It runs like sh*t". A little more gas, and it smoothes out.
PCV?? A bit of vacuum if I remove the oil cap. Not a lot, but some.
I left the EGR alone, checked vacuum lines, all seems okay.
(Traction Control: I'll leave well enough alone. The car moves, so I won't fiddle with the buttons. The TC light does not illuminate on the dash. I generally drive using performance shift, tonight I decided to try out regular shift.
Ride Control: Goona leave that alone too. None of the lights on the shifter illuminate. Some sort of problem there...)
Any idea how to get the sun roof to close tightly?? Mine is fussy.
OH! Thanks for noticing. Big Rush fan, hence the handle.
Also, I'll try to upload an image of the car tomorrow.
Thanks again in advance.
Adam
First of all, thanks for your quick responses. You folks are great.
So, I've changed the plugs, ignition wires, engine oil & filter, and things have improved quite a bit, however when at crusing speed (80km/h, 50mph) and I hammer on the gas, it still bucks, and almost sounds like it'* choking, sputtering is a good word for it. The */C needle jumps around when this happens.
Now, if I go easy on it: ease the throttle and bring the revs up, get the */c gauge past 0 into the boost area, then it takes off! Wow this thing flies!
I should mention that sometimes when you first start the car, the low idle is really rough. My wife told me, "It runs like sh*t". A little more gas, and it smoothes out.
PCV?? A bit of vacuum if I remove the oil cap. Not a lot, but some.
I left the EGR alone, checked vacuum lines, all seems okay.
(Traction Control: I'll leave well enough alone. The car moves, so I won't fiddle with the buttons. The TC light does not illuminate on the dash. I generally drive using performance shift, tonight I decided to try out regular shift.
Ride Control: Goona leave that alone too. None of the lights on the shifter illuminate. Some sort of problem there...)
Any idea how to get the sun roof to close tightly?? Mine is fussy.
OH! Thanks for noticing. Big Rush fan, hence the handle.
Also, I'll try to upload an image of the car tomorrow.
Thanks again in advance.
Adam
#13
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Originally Posted by labonnavillastragiato
Hi Everyone,
First of all, thanks for your quick responses. You folks are great.
So, I've changed the plugs, ignition wires, engine oil & filter, and things have improved quite a bit, however when at crusing speed (80km/h, 50mph) and I hammer on the gas, it still bucks, and almost sounds like it'* choking, sputtering is a good word for it. The */C needle jumps around when this happens.
Now, if I go easy on it: ease the throttle and bring the revs up, get the */c gauge past 0 into the boost area, then it takes off! Wow this thing flies!
I should mention that sometimes when you first start the car, the low idle is really rough. My wife told me, "It runs like sh*t". A little more gas, and it smoothes out.
PCV?? A bit of vacuum if I remove the oil cap. Not a lot, but some.
I left the EGR alone, checked vacuum lines, all seems okay.
(Traction Control: I'll leave well enough alone. The car moves, so I won't fiddle with the buttons. The TC light does not illuminate on the dash. I generally drive using performance shift, tonight I decided to try out regular shift.
Ride Control: Goona leave that alone too. None of the lights on the shifter illuminate. Some sort of problem there...)
Any idea how to get the sun roof to close tightly?? Mine is fussy.
OH! Thanks for noticing. Big Rush fan, hence the handle.
Also, I'll try to upload an image of the car tomorrow.
Thanks again in advance.
Adam
First of all, thanks for your quick responses. You folks are great.
So, I've changed the plugs, ignition wires, engine oil & filter, and things have improved quite a bit, however when at crusing speed (80km/h, 50mph) and I hammer on the gas, it still bucks, and almost sounds like it'* choking, sputtering is a good word for it. The */C needle jumps around when this happens.
Now, if I go easy on it: ease the throttle and bring the revs up, get the */c gauge past 0 into the boost area, then it takes off! Wow this thing flies!
I should mention that sometimes when you first start the car, the low idle is really rough. My wife told me, "It runs like sh*t". A little more gas, and it smoothes out.
PCV?? A bit of vacuum if I remove the oil cap. Not a lot, but some.
I left the EGR alone, checked vacuum lines, all seems okay.
(Traction Control: I'll leave well enough alone. The car moves, so I won't fiddle with the buttons. The TC light does not illuminate on the dash. I generally drive using performance shift, tonight I decided to try out regular shift.
Ride Control: Goona leave that alone too. None of the lights on the shifter illuminate. Some sort of problem there...)
Any idea how to get the sun roof to close tightly?? Mine is fussy.
OH! Thanks for noticing. Big Rush fan, hence the handle.
Also, I'll try to upload an image of the car tomorrow.
Thanks again in advance.
Adam
You need to realign your sunroof. Instructions in Techinfo under 'exterior' for the sunroof seal should get you close. You need a helper.
Change the PCV valve. It'* under a steel plate on the top of the supercharger.
What octane of fuel are you running, how old is the fuel filter, and what'* your fuel pressure?
For the rough idle, clean the TB and MAF. Instructions for that are in Techinfo also.
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Hi everybody.
I'm happy to report it was indeed a malfunctioning coil pack.
Crazy stuff.
Thanks to Will'* link for testing the packs, I found one that had the primary resistance all over the map.
As luck would have it, I happened to have a set of packs in my basement from when I had a 2.8L Chevy Celebrity. They used the exact same packs, same part number marked on the bottoms. I checked that set, and replaced all 3 and off I went.
I took it for a test drive, hit the gas, no more hesitation, no more funky noises, gets to boost quickly, and the car takes off nice.
When I walked back into my house I looked like this:
My wife said, "I take it the car is fixed"
Yes it is, for now...
Thanks again to all. I have a few posts on the go, so I will add this note in case others are experiencing the same problem.
Cheers,
Adam
I'm happy to report it was indeed a malfunctioning coil pack.
Crazy stuff.
Thanks to Will'* link for testing the packs, I found one that had the primary resistance all over the map.
As luck would have it, I happened to have a set of packs in my basement from when I had a 2.8L Chevy Celebrity. They used the exact same packs, same part number marked on the bottoms. I checked that set, and replaced all 3 and off I went.
I took it for a test drive, hit the gas, no more hesitation, no more funky noises, gets to boost quickly, and the car takes off nice.
When I walked back into my house I looked like this:
![Very Happy](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
My wife said, "I take it the car is fixed"
Yes it is, for now...
Thanks again to all. I have a few posts on the go, so I will add this note in case others are experiencing the same problem.
Cheers,
Adam
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Yes indeedy, feed the needy.
Now that the car is running properly, it might be time to think about a few mods.
I think #1 will be a K&N filter and take if from there.
Will the series II coils enhance performance??
Now that the car is running properly, it might be time to think about a few mods.
I think #1 will be a K&N filter and take if from there.
Will the series II coils enhance performance??
#17
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Not that you'll feel. Slightly smoother idle and MAYBE a little more mid-range power. MSD 8224 coils would be preferred over S2 L67 coils (97 or newer), but it'* not suggested unless you NEED new coils. Some people notice it, some don't.
I use the MSD 8224 coils because I'm running plugs 3 heatranges colder than stock, so instead of shrinking by plug gap to .045, I can run it a .050 with the hotter coils. That'* the real benefit.
Further discussion on this topic (coil performance) should probably take place in a new topic in the Performance section.
I use the MSD 8224 coils because I'm running plugs 3 heatranges colder than stock, so instead of shrinking by plug gap to .045, I can run it a .050 with the hotter coils. That'* the real benefit.
Further discussion on this topic (coil performance) should probably take place in a new topic in the Performance section.
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