slow 1st gear engagement
#1
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slow 1st gear engagement
Driving around town.. my tach was jumping around [thanks rain], and so my transmission was really acting up, so I started manually shifting her. Well.. I was going from D to 2, nice quick shift [less than a second], then, when I got into the business district of town, I went into 1, and the car started slowing down.. and it took 2-3 seconds to engage. I tried this shift again, and it was the same thing. It isn't the clutches slipping.. the car REALLY pulled and reacted to shifts really good. My fluid isn't all that good.. but it doesn't have a burnt smell, and isn't black, but pink.. with a small trace of brown. Is my tranny ok?
On the tranny subject.. the lines that go to the cooler, leak a small amount of fluid when first started up, but not after that. I inspected the lines, and they don't look all that good. Can I go to AZ and get a direct replacement? Would it maybe be a little better idea to just put on my own lines, and mount up a new cooler instead, and just plugging off the radiator cooler [for the tranny ].
-justin
On the tranny subject.. the lines that go to the cooler, leak a small amount of fluid when first started up, but not after that. I inspected the lines, and they don't look all that good. Can I go to AZ and get a direct replacement? Would it maybe be a little better idea to just put on my own lines, and mount up a new cooler instead, and just plugging off the radiator cooler [for the tranny ].
-justin
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What speed are you pulling it into first gear at? There is a governor on most cars to prevent over reving. Any external cooler that you can put on outside of the radiator is better than in the radiator...Less heat. HEAT+TRANS= BAD NEWS
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Going about 25, and no, it wasn't kicking in with a governer, because my speed decreased like 2mph, and the engine only revved up to like 3k ish [tach off, and going by engine sound]. Besides, my car is kinda dumb, it wouldn't have a damn clue about governing anything.
Cooler, I know it would be good, but I would be okay with just putting in new lines, and completely bypassing the rad. cooler? I am going to get one of those cool coolers, that are usually for rodders, you know what i'm talking about. That way I can mount it anywhere.. and I can mount it for looks!
-justin
Cooler, I know it would be good, but I would be okay with just putting in new lines, and completely bypassing the rad. cooler? I am going to get one of those cool coolers, that are usually for rodders, you know what i'm talking about. That way I can mount it anywhere.. and I can mount it for looks!
-justin
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It'* a great start to prolonging your transaxle. I'm gonna do it on mine when I get some money, before I start doin some real mods
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Okay, sounds good. As long as I won't run into trouble, not using the stock lines, then all is good. One day I will be able to afford one too . I am thinking I should get one before the car is really started to be driven, but I am poor.. so I don't know how those two will combine.
-justin
-justin
#6
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Before playing around with the cooler, or modulator, I'd do this:
Remove a small amount of fluid to make room for a bottle of Lucas trans additive. This stuff can firm up weak shifts by raising line pressure. You might want to consider a flush before you do this, as it might just solve your problem. If you're going to flush, add some Seafoam Trans-Tune a week in advance. Then have the flush done.
How long since your filter was changed? It won't cause this problem, but might need to be done. In that case, do it like this:
Seafoam Trans Tune, drive for a week. Pull your pan and replace the filter. Top off, drive for a day or two, then go get flushed. You don't want to use the modulator or other ideas to fix something that may not be related.
Remove a small amount of fluid to make room for a bottle of Lucas trans additive. This stuff can firm up weak shifts by raising line pressure. You might want to consider a flush before you do this, as it might just solve your problem. If you're going to flush, add some Seafoam Trans-Tune a week in advance. Then have the flush done.
How long since your filter was changed? It won't cause this problem, but might need to be done. In that case, do it like this:
Seafoam Trans Tune, drive for a week. Pull your pan and replace the filter. Top off, drive for a day or two, then go get flushed. You don't want to use the modulator or other ideas to fix something that may not be related.
#7
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hmm.. sounds good. How much is driving a week? Because, I kinda don't have really good brakes. Also, where can I get the seafoam products?
About the Lucas oil products, I saw a study, on how they are bad, and foam up and are just worthless and do nothing but harm.
-justin
About the Lucas oil products, I saw a study, on how they are bad, and foam up and are just worthless and do nothing but harm.
-justin
#8
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I've run both products in my car. Never a problem. Both are available at Autozone. Drive at least 100 miles with the Seafoam in before the flush, using all gears, manual shifting as much as possible.
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100 miles.. hmm.. damn gonna have to fill up the tank. Okay, will do. Hopefully I'll be able to run to AZ tomorrow, and get to work sooner, rather than later.
-justin
-justin
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