CV Shaft installation help...
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CV Shaft installation help...
Had to replace the passenger side CV shaft. Im having issues getting the lower control arm pried down enough to set the ball joint back in place with the steering knuckle.....anyone have any tips for this?
#2
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a long steel bar, aproximatly 4-5 or 6 feet. You might consider an assistant.
Pry the lower control arm down, by prying it down, using the body, or frame to assist. Good idea to have a friend, or your wife to help.
Pry the lower control arm down, by prying it down, using the body, or frame to assist. Good idea to have a friend, or your wife to help.
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You'll need a big, BIG pry bar. I use a solid iron torsion bar out of an old chrysler, it'* about 5 feet long and 1.5 inches thick. It takes a lot to move those things around.
#4
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Did you remove the end link on the stabilizer bar? Makes it a lot easier to move that lower control arm. If your car is fairly new and really clean underneath, you can also undo the stabilizer bar bushing bolts (the ones that hold the bar up across the middle of the car), to get a little easier movement on the control arm. But sometimes those bolts are really rusty and break, and then you've gotta drill and tap. That'* why I just undo the links. Unless the links are pretty new, you will probably need to destroy the old ones to get 'em out, but new ones are not expensive and are simple to install.
If you don't have help, and the arm is still really tight, loosen the big nuts that attach the lower control arm to the subrame rail. That will allow the rubber bushings to spin and the arm will move much more easily.
Oh yeah, make sure the drive shaft is all the way (snapped) into the trans on its snap ring. If it is sticking out too far, the alignment will be wrong on the ball joint post making the join-up with the knuckle difficult or impossible.
If you don't have help, and the arm is still really tight, loosen the big nuts that attach the lower control arm to the subrame rail. That will allow the rubber bushings to spin and the arm will move much more easily.
Oh yeah, make sure the drive shaft is all the way (snapped) into the trans on its snap ring. If it is sticking out too far, the alignment will be wrong on the ball joint post making the join-up with the knuckle difficult or impossible.
#5
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Before I bought my 10 ft wrecking bar at a local tool supply house for $22 I had the same problem. I loosened the end link and it made the job easy. Only problem was it broke the bolt and I had to replace the link. It was rotted anyway.
If you mess with the end link be prepared to replace it. A dealer tech once told me never touch that.
Best $22 I ever spent on a tool. Used it countless times and probably many more in the future.
If you mess with the end link be prepared to replace it. A dealer tech once told me never touch that.
Best $22 I ever spent on a tool. Used it countless times and probably many more in the future.
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I got it all in. I loosened the sway bar bolt and that gave me that extra inch or so to get the lower ball joint connected with the steering knuckle.
Unfortunately, the ball joint boot ripped. I will need to get that replaced...but this time its going to a garage.
Thanks for all the tips guys.
Unfortunately, the ball joint boot ripped. I will need to get that replaced...but this time its going to a garage.
Thanks for all the tips guys.
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dumbsioux
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11-18-2004 11:41 PM