Code 63 : PCM Error (Help)
06-15-2004, 03:16 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by willwren
You have the digital EGR, correct? That should be the case in 91. Mushroom looking thing, only yours is towards the firewall side of the engine bay where mine is near the front?
Use some solvent (WD40 works) and a toothbrush to clean the 3 shafts and springs. Squirt it up in there good. Start the car and cook off the WD, then after it cools, use a teflon based light lube that will be temp resistant. This usually works on the digital EGR'*. You may end up having to remove it, but we'll get to that later if we need to.
Use some solvent (WD40 works) and a toothbrush to clean the 3 shafts and springs. Squirt it up in there good. Start the car and cook off the WD, then after it cools, use a teflon based light lube that will be temp resistant. This usually works on the digital EGR'*. You may end up having to remove it, but we'll get to that later if we need to.
06-15-2004, 09:04 PM
#13
Originally Posted by willwren
I talked sse1990 through this not too long ago, and Jseabert last year. Haven't seen one replaced yet. Usually cleaning does the trick.
Still not sure why the car idles rough on occasion, I even had the injectors cleaned and it didn't help, BUT it already had good vacuum ( tested before and after the cleaning)
06-15-2004, 10:10 PM
#15
You know what, I just cleaned it and that was it. I didn't put anything on it to lube it and it is still fine a few months later. BUT I bet it will come back and bite me on the *** some day, hehe.
06-16-2004, 12:09 AM
#16
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Guns and fishing reels. Anything with teflon or silicon in it. Even a light silicon grease would do. Silicon is impervious to heat. At least more than your EGR valve can produce 
06-16-2004, 06:17 AM
#17
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Emailed my mechanic..... he sent me this back.
It'* a bit technical for me, but I'm going to read it over again.
I thought I might wanna post it here for all you gearheads and such....
It'* a bit technical for me, but I'm going to read it over again.
I thought I might wanna post it here for all you gearheads and such....
Code 63, 64 & 65
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION:
Codes 63, 64, and 65 are EGR flow test failures. The ECM on
a closed throttle coast down will cycle the solenoids "ON" and "OFF"
individually and look for a resulting change in engine rpm and O2 sensor
activity.
NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations
used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to ECM CONNECTOR
IDENTIFICATION
under ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS for correct color code
identification of circuit.
TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on
the diagnostic chart.
1.. You should be able to discern a change in the engine rpm as each solenoid is cycled "ON." Solenoid #1 should have the smallest change and #3 should have the largest change and may even stall the engine.
2.. Check for an open in circuit 697, 698, 699 or a faulty ECM connection.
NOTE: If the digital EGR valve shows signs of excessive heat, a melted condition, check the exhaust system for blockage or possibly a plugged converter. Refer to CHART B-1 in EMISSIONS. A plugged exhaust may be due to:
a.. STUCK OPEN INJECTOR
b.. GROUNDED DRIVER CKT
c.. POSSIBLE FAULTY ECM
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:
An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed-through wire insulation, or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for Poor Connection or Damaged Harness Inspect ECM harness connectors for backed out terminals "BC2," "BC3," and "BD2," improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal to wire connection, and damaged harness.
Intermittent Test - If connections and harness check OK, connect
a digital voltmeter from effected terminals to ground while moving related
connectors and wiring harness. If the failure is induced, the voltage reading will change.
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION:
Codes 63, 64, and 65 are EGR flow test failures. The ECM on
a closed throttle coast down will cycle the solenoids "ON" and "OFF"
individually and look for a resulting change in engine rpm and O2 sensor
activity.
NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations
used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to ECM CONNECTOR
IDENTIFICATION
under ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS for correct color code
identification of circuit.
TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on
the diagnostic chart.
1.. You should be able to discern a change in the engine rpm as each solenoid is cycled "ON." Solenoid #1 should have the smallest change and #3 should have the largest change and may even stall the engine.
2.. Check for an open in circuit 697, 698, 699 or a faulty ECM connection.
NOTE: If the digital EGR valve shows signs of excessive heat, a melted condition, check the exhaust system for blockage or possibly a plugged converter. Refer to CHART B-1 in EMISSIONS. A plugged exhaust may be due to:
a.. STUCK OPEN INJECTOR
b.. GROUNDED DRIVER CKT
c.. POSSIBLE FAULTY ECM
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:
An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed-through wire insulation, or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for Poor Connection or Damaged Harness Inspect ECM harness connectors for backed out terminals "BC2," "BC3," and "BD2," improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal to wire connection, and damaged harness.
Intermittent Test - If connections and harness check OK, connect
a digital voltmeter from effected terminals to ground while moving related
connectors and wiring harness. If the failure is induced, the voltage reading will change.
06-16-2004, 10:07 AM
#18
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
That'* the little bottle? That stuff should work fine.
The silicon lube....this is just for the shafts and sprins. Don't lube internally with it at all. Use it only if you DON'T remove the EGR to clean it.
The silicon lube....this is just for the shafts and sprins. Don't lube internally with it at all. Use it only if you DON'T remove the EGR to clean it.
06-16-2004, 08:48 PM
#20
I would remove it if I was you. Just get a 3$ gasket at the dealer for it and remove the 3 screws that hold it down and clean it good and you won't have to worry about the teflon lube.