Hot damn, that'* *really* tight. But then again, the 55 +/- 3 rating that Toyota gives for their old inline sixes is for an aluminum head/iron block - a rating too low that causes the eventual gasket failure - ~70ft-lbs is a better number in that case.



But 155 + 90º

wow dude, mine is just 100ft lbs! You sure that wasn't Newton Meters, or inch lbs?

This is weird.. the FSM says nothing about replacing head bolts.. but the Haynes says I HAVE to. What'* up with that?

I know GM bolts are of OEM quality, but I don't want to keep buying $30 bolts everytime I have to pull the heads. May as well invest in a good set of ARP Studs, plus it aids in installation, even though the dowels are nice.. I'd rather studs.

the fsm said to use a 7/16-14 tap, is that the kind of bolt I need?


-justin

Whoa...that'* too tight. Definitely overtorqued. Are you sure about that?
100 ft lbs sounds about right.
The head bolts on my Olds 400 have a higher torque than Chevy or Pontiac 350 engines at 130 ft lbs.

you don't want studs. it'* improper for your application, as they take more than one torquing (with running between torques) before they are properly seated. deff. not for the average consumer application.

head bolts can only be used once, because they are torque to yield. once they reach their rated torque, they are stretched in such a way that they will hold that torque, but will never again if they are removed and re-torqued. the only advantage given to studs (i think they actually make it a little harder to put the heads on) is that the torque is only in one direction, instead of two (that is, the torque on a stud is only along the axis of the stud, while on a head bolt, it'* along the axis, but there'* also twist involved when the head of the bolt comes into contact with the surface), which can mean more accurate torquing for the studs,. but your car will be fine with bolts. there'* a reason that GM still used bolts... it makes sense for the application.

in any event, the fel-pros are fine. in fact, they're more than fine. they'll do the job just as well as the GM bolts.

*dont* get the studs. you'll have to re-torque them several times, requiring you to pull the valve covers several times, front and back, just to re-torque them. and i'm pretty sure you'll find it easier to bolt up with bolts rather than studs - with the studs, you're holding the heavy head in your hands, 6 inches above the block trying to align all of your holes before you can drop it down. with the bolts, you're not trying to do that balancing act.

*stick with the bolts*, fel-pro is fine, gm is fine.

<edit>

umm, how many times are you planning on pulling the heads? do it once, do it right, and you won't have to do it again... so there'* 30 bucks... once.

no offense, but the FSM was written for the audience that already knows that they need to be replaced every time...

a machine shop

Alright, no studs it is. Keep with the felpros

I know do it right the first time.. but you never know. Oh well, may as well just do it right.. guess that sounds better than ******* it up .

Take 'em to a machine shop to get checked out.. made sure all is well in cylinder-head land. Anyone have a price estimate on what that should be?

Just confirming about the FSM stuff.. just in case.. ya know?


-justin

What did you use to seal your headgaskets? Did you just go straight block-gasket-head or was there some extra sealing in there. Every time i install head gaskets and head bolts i use aircraft grade form-a-gasket. I put it on the block AND head side of the gasket, and on the threads of the head gaskets. That'* just a little extra insurance on it. The fel-pro bolts should be fine, or factory GM ones, either way. 100-125 lb ft should be plenty for them. Next time you do it make sure you use 50/50 coolant too. The straight water probably isn't the best for internal rust. Oh and no more seafoam lol. When you re-fill it with oil use at least one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. I beg you. It should help a ton with your bottom-end lubrication and helping with what the water may have damaged. Good luck anyways.

Sealant? On the head gasket? Err.. doesn't that pit the mating surface?

Yeah, I think I am done with the seafoam in the oil for a while .

I'm also curious what [if anything] extra I should add to the head bolts.. because I am speculating [after pulling the valve covers] that some coolant passed through the head bolts. I see teflon tape is recommended in haynes.. but I kept what was on the bolts from fel-pro, and added some extra blue thread locker for the extra insurance.. but when I pulled a bolt, all of it was gone. except just a little


-justin

Am I to understand that your headbolts go into your coolant passages :?:

That just doesn't sound right. :?

no, it doesn't sound right :?