Ball joint seperator tool
#2
Most likely it won't. On this drivetrain there is usually barely enough room to slip the nut out of place w/o popping the joint.
I have a 4-5 foot thick steel pipe jack handle. Using that to push the a arm down from the frame and a buddy to smack the balljoint side with a big hammer usually does the trick w/o killing the boot. Although I've also heard you can buy boots.
I have a 4-5 foot thick steel pipe jack handle. Using that to push the a arm down from the frame and a buddy to smack the balljoint side with a big hammer usually does the trick w/o killing the boot. Although I've also heard you can buy boots.
#4
Thank You
Thank You I appreciate the feed back
Most likely it won't. On this drivetrain there is usually barely enough room to slip the nut out of place w/o popping the joint.
I have a 4-5 foot thick steel pipe jack handle. Using that to push the a arm down from the frame and a buddy to smack the balljoint side with a big hammer usually does the trick w/o killing the boot. Although I've also heard you can buy boots.
I have a 4-5 foot thick steel pipe jack handle. Using that to push the a arm down from the frame and a buddy to smack the balljoint side with a big hammer usually does the trick w/o killing the boot. Although I've also heard you can buy boots.
#5
#6
if i remember correctly i found the best way to do it without damaging the boot is to loosen the nut so the threads are not exposed so they wont get damaged...then i wedge a thick chisel between the nut and whatever is directly above it which should be the spindle...lastly i wack it with a bfh and boot never gets touched and it comes apart nicely...hitting the side of the ball joint never seems to work for me but then again i never have another set of hands to push down the control arm
#8
I separated my ball joints thusly:
1) Make sure you're on stable jackstands.
2) Remove wheel, brake caliper and rotor, etc. (whatever'* all in the way).
3) Remove sway bar endlink.
4) Remove cotter and crown completely.
5) Bang a bit on the sides and bottom of the control arm in the vicinity of the ball joint with a regular old hammer, just to loosen things up a bit.
6) Put the tip of a very large flatblade screwdriver on the control arm, just to the outside of the ball joint; hold screwdriver vertically, perpendicular to control arm.
7) Bang straight down on the back of the handle of the screwdriver with the hammer--hard--until the ball joint pops free.
(I suppose a dull cold chisel, railroad spike, etc. could be used instead of the screwdriver)
1) Make sure you're on stable jackstands.
2) Remove wheel, brake caliper and rotor, etc. (whatever'* all in the way).
3) Remove sway bar endlink.
4) Remove cotter and crown completely.
5) Bang a bit on the sides and bottom of the control arm in the vicinity of the ball joint with a regular old hammer, just to loosen things up a bit.
6) Put the tip of a very large flatblade screwdriver on the control arm, just to the outside of the ball joint; hold screwdriver vertically, perpendicular to control arm.
7) Bang straight down on the back of the handle of the screwdriver with the hammer--hard--until the ball joint pops free.
(I suppose a dull cold chisel, railroad spike, etc. could be used instead of the screwdriver)
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