Fuel pump seems to be working. I just didn't give it a chance to get all the air out.


The real problem seems to be a lack of spark. Tested magnavox coils I've been meaning to replace forever with a multimeter and bottom two posts showed resistances in the megaohm range I think so put in the delco coils i ordered from billboost a while back.

There'* no activity on the tachometer when I try and start whereas there was weak activity a couple days back. Initially I thought I might've knocked something else loose given I dropped more than one tool into the engine bay and had to fish it out but I couldn't find anything. Of the three fuses I had in my glove compartment, the first two were fine. The last was a busted 10 amp fuse that I replaced but that had no discernable effect. Any idea what that one was for anyhow?

Judging by multiple posts on this forum, I'm beginning to fear its the crank sensor. I'll doublecheck tomorrow to make sure the ICM is getting power as well first. Any other suggestions?

Please excuse any incoherence in the above. I'm a little stressed and way tired right now after messing with this the better part of the night. :D

That 10 amp fuse (#7?) may be for the fuel injectors. Make sure that fuse didn't blow again. The pink/black wires going to the fuel injectors should have 12 volts while the key is on. If you don't have 12 volts at the injector it'* either fuse #7 on the passenger side or fuse #17 on the driver’* side. My Chilton'* manual & Owner'* manual are showing different locations. If the injector fuse is blowing you can disconnect all the injector wires then connect one at time to find the faulty injector. Each time you replace an injector wire turn the engine over then check the fuse before replacing the next wire. You can also check the resistance of all the fuel injectors.

Check for spark at each of the three front cylinders. I check by putting the spark plug wire on a spare plug & rest the plug on something metal. Look for a spark while someone cranks the engine over. This can be hard to see on a bright day but should be easy to see if you’re in a garage.

If you’re not getting spark from any of the three wires check for 12 volts at the pink/black wire going to the ICM. If you have 12 volts then either the ICM or crank sensor is bad.

If you're getting spark at 1 or 2 of the wires then either the ICM or coil packs are bad.

We've also seen strange things happen with weak batteries and poor connections at either end of the battery cables. You should also check the condition of all 6 spark plugs. Let us know what you find. We can give better answers if we have more info from all the above testing.

i read somewhere that a non working tach is the result of a bad ICM so that might be the problem

Negative cable was loose as it wasn't being tightened all the way due to being slightly stripped. Embarassing but at least its starting now :oops:

LOL - Some times it'* the easy things. If it'* the bolt in the cable that'* stripped & not the battery they can be replaced for a dollar or two. Could save you some trouble down the road.

I've got a spare set of batt cables for sale..